Remove Insulation From Attic
At Green Attic in Chicago, we understand that safely removing old or damaged attic insulation is essential for improving air quality, energy efficiency, and long-term home performance.
Trusted by homeowners for reliable, energy-saving insulation solutions.
Request a Quote Today
Please Fill Out the Form Bellow
First name *
Last name *
Email *
Phone *
Address, City, State, Zip *
Tell us more about your project
Get a Free Quote
When Insulation Removal May Not Be Necessary
If your insulation wasn't severely damaged by water, depending on the type of insulation, it can actually dry out, because of the heat loss in winter or heat gain in summer and insulation removal is not necessary.
If you have mold in the attic, it is possible for your existing attic insulation to remain in the house as long as there are no signs of mold growth on the insulation and the insulation is treated at the same time as the rest of the attic to kill all the mold spores and prevent it from regrowing.
Even if your insulation has compressed over time, it still provides thermal resistance and can be supplemented with additional layers to improve your home's overall energy performance. Existing insulation can remain and benefit your retrofit attic upgrades in 4 ways:
✓ Increased R-Value
✓ Decreased Removal Costs
✓ Decreased Labor And Material Costs
✓ Less Landfill
We're committed to finding cost-effective and environmentally responsible solutions by preserving existing materials whenever it's safe and practical to do so.
If you have mold in the attic, it is possible for your existing attic insulation to remain in the house as long as there are no signs of mold growth on the insulation and the insulation is treated at the same time as the rest of the attic to kill all the mold spores and prevent it from regrowing.
Even if your insulation has compressed over time, it still provides thermal resistance and can be supplemented with additional layers to improve your home's overall energy performance. Existing insulation can remain and benefit your retrofit attic upgrades in 4 ways:
✓ Increased R-Value
✓ Decreased Removal Costs
✓ Decreased Labor And Material Costs
✓ Less Landfill
We're committed to finding cost-effective and environmentally responsible solutions by preserving existing materials whenever it's safe and practical to do so.
.jpg)
Insulation That Has Settled
You may be wondering if you need to replace insulation that has settled. Even if your existing insulation has settled, you can leave it in place and simply have insulation added on top of it (as long as it does not have any of the previously mentioned deficiencies).
Insulation that has settled still has thermal resistive properties that add to the overall R-value once new insulation is added.
By leaving the old insulation intact, you are also leaving the original vapor barrier intact, as long as it was installed properly during the original installation.
However, air sealing the attic floor with fireproof foam will need to be done before new the insulation is installed to increase efficiency and prevent moisture from inside the house.
Insulation that has settled still has thermal resistive properties that add to the overall R-value once new insulation is added.
By leaving the old insulation intact, you are also leaving the original vapor barrier intact, as long as it was installed properly during the original installation.
However, air sealing the attic floor with fireproof foam will need to be done before new the insulation is installed to increase efficiency and prevent moisture from inside the house.
For new construction and situations where insulation needs to be removed, a professional should air seal with fireproofing foam at all of the gaps in between the drywall and the framing members in the attic.
After the gaps are sealed, they will install the baffle for proper ventilation and install up to 16-18 inches of cellulose to get an initial R-value of R60.
All insulation will settle, so an experienced professional will know to compensate for the settling by installing an extra 2 inches of cellulose insulation. Extra insulation will also be valuable in any future work that needs to be done in the attic as it can be disbursed to the areas that are worked on.
After the gaps are sealed, they will install the baffle for proper ventilation and install up to 16-18 inches of cellulose to get an initial R-value of R60.
All insulation will settle, so an experienced professional will know to compensate for the settling by installing an extra 2 inches of cellulose insulation. Extra insulation will also be valuable in any future work that needs to be done in the attic as it can be disbursed to the areas that are worked on.
Vapor Barrier
If you have fiberglass batts in your attic, there is a good chance there is already a vapor barrier, as most of these batts have a thick piece of heavy-duty paper on one side, specifically designed to act as the vapor barrier.
For blown-in fiberglass insulation, you should see a plastic membrane or other vapor impermeable material installed to help stop the exposure of moisture to your insulation.
Moisture will reduce the R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) of your insulation over time. This is another reason it is important to have a professional inspect your attic to ensure your vapor barrier is not damaged or missing.
When using blown-in cellulose insulation, a vapor barrier is not needed as it acts as a natural vapor barrier and will restrict the flow of vapor in the attic.
It is always important to make sure the attic is properly ventilated to decrease moisture build-up. In some cases, it may be necessary to add supplemental ventilation in the form of an attic vent/fan.
For blown-in fiberglass insulation, you should see a plastic membrane or other vapor impermeable material installed to help stop the exposure of moisture to your insulation.
Moisture will reduce the R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) of your insulation over time. This is another reason it is important to have a professional inspect your attic to ensure your vapor barrier is not damaged or missing.
When using blown-in cellulose insulation, a vapor barrier is not needed as it acts as a natural vapor barrier and will restrict the flow of vapor in the attic.
It is always important to make sure the attic is properly ventilated to decrease moisture build-up. In some cases, it may be necessary to add supplemental ventilation in the form of an attic vent/fan.
Cellulose insulation is also a natural vapor barrier and will save you on the additional expense of removing insulation. Blow-in fiberglass is made out of rigid fibers and doesn’t stop the moisture or air leaks. Blow-in fiberglass also requires a continuous moisture barrier.
What Type of Insulation Should You Use After Removal?
Blown-in insulation is a great option as it covers the area more effectively than bat fiberglass. A professional will blow in the material through a 3-inch hose and completely cover the attic floor, encapsulating the ceiling joists.
This is important because wood has a low R-value, meaning it transfers heat very easily. By encapsulating the floor joist with insulation, thermal bridging (the transfer of heat) is eliminated making the insulation more effective.
The most common types of blown-in insulation are fiberglass and cellulose. Cellulose is a great alternative to blown-in fiberglass insulation because it is healthier, eco-friendly, and will resist mold growth while having similar, if not greater thermal resistive properties (higher R-value) than blown-in fiberglass insulation.
This is important because wood has a low R-value, meaning it transfers heat very easily. By encapsulating the floor joist with insulation, thermal bridging (the transfer of heat) is eliminated making the insulation more effective.
The most common types of blown-in insulation are fiberglass and cellulose. Cellulose is a great alternative to blown-in fiberglass insulation because it is healthier, eco-friendly, and will resist mold growth while having similar, if not greater thermal resistive properties (higher R-value) than blown-in fiberglass insulation.
Spray Foam Removal
Although spray foam insulation is popular and applicable in many situations (such as commercial metal roofs), there can be serious problems if it is not applied properly.
Even when it is applied properly, there are many situations where spray foam is not the most appropriate product to be used on the attic rafters. Many spray applied foam insulations pose fire hazards and make it hard to identify roof leaks since spray foam is applied to the underside of the roof decking.
If your foam insulation in the attic smells bad, it may have been applied at the wrong temperature, installed too thick, or not applied properly at the time of installation. Another cause for complications with spray foam in the attic is roof leaks.
Spray foam insulation can cause the water to be trapped between the foam and the roof decking, creating a potential for the roof decking material to rot. It is imperative to schedule a spray foam insulation removal and replacement if there has been water damage.
Even when it is applied properly, there are many situations where spray foam is not the most appropriate product to be used on the attic rafters. Many spray applied foam insulations pose fire hazards and make it hard to identify roof leaks since spray foam is applied to the underside of the roof decking.
If your foam insulation in the attic smells bad, it may have been applied at the wrong temperature, installed too thick, or not applied properly at the time of installation. Another cause for complications with spray foam in the attic is roof leaks.
Spray foam insulation can cause the water to be trapped between the foam and the roof decking, creating a potential for the roof decking material to rot. It is imperative to schedule a spray foam insulation removal and replacement if there has been water damage.
Frequently Asked Question
How much does it cost to get insulation removed?
Insulation removal typically costs about $1 to $2 per sq ft for labor and disposal, with many homeowners paying around $600 to $1,200 for a 1,500 sq ft attic, which makes it a straightforward way to prep your space for a fresh, cleaner insulation upgrade.
Costs are often very manageable when the attic is easy to access and the insulation is clean, and pricing simply adjusts based on factors like blown-in material, tighter spaces, or optional cleaning for an even better result. For the best value, getting a couple of quotes helps you match the price to your exact attic conditions.
Costs are often very manageable when the attic is easy to access and the insulation is clean, and pricing simply adjusts based on factors like blown-in material, tighter spaces, or optional cleaning for an even better result. For the best value, getting a couple of quotes helps you match the price to your exact attic conditions.
What is the best way to get rid of insulation?
The best way to get rid of insulation is to double-bag blown-in or dusty materials, which helps keep fibers contained and makes cleanup feel much easier. Put on basic protective gear (mask, gloves, goggles), then bring the bagged insulation to a local landfill or construction debris facility that accepts it, so the whole cleanup stays neat, safe, and stress-free.
For larger projects, a dumpster rental or junk removal service makes the process fast and stress-free, and checking local disposal rules helps everything go smoothly. If the insulation is very old or looks like vermiculite, getting it tested first is a smart, safe step before disposal.
For larger projects, a dumpster rental or junk removal service makes the process fast and stress-free, and checking local disposal rules helps everything go smoothly. If the insulation is very old or looks like vermiculite, getting it tested first is a smart, safe step before disposal.
Do I need to remove the old insulation before upgrading to a high-performance energy-efficient system?
You generally do not need to remove old insulation before upgrading to a high-performance, energy-efficient system, as long as it is dry, clean, and in good shape. Insulation removal is usually an optional upgrade that helps you get the best results if the existing material has been affected by moisture, mold, fire, or pests, or if you are switching to closed-cell spray foam for a strong, secure bond.
In many homes, you can save money by adding new high-performance insulation on top, and it is an ideal time to improve air sealing for even better comfort and efficiency.
In many homes, you can save money by adding new high-performance insulation on top, and it is an ideal time to improve air sealing for even better comfort and efficiency.
Could old cellulose or loose-fill insulation in my home be flammable or non-compliant with current fire codes?
Yes, older cellulose or loose-fill insulation can be flammable, particularly when its fire-retardant additives have weakened over time, and upgrading to modern treated cellulose is an easy way to boost safety.
Modern cellulose is typically treated to be highly fire-resistant, so a quick professional inspection can confirm whether your existing insulation is still performing well and aligns with today’s code expectations. If it is old, damp, or breaking down, updating it can be a straightforward upgrade that improves both safety and comfort.
Modern cellulose is typically treated to be highly fire-resistant, so a quick professional inspection can confirm whether your existing insulation is still performing well and aligns with today’s code expectations. If it is old, damp, or breaking down, updating it can be a straightforward upgrade that improves both safety and comfort.
Do I need to remove insulation before roof replacement, HVAC ductwork installation, or a home remodel?
No, you don’t usually need to remove insulation before a roof replacement, HVAC ductwork installation, or a remodel, which helps keep the project simpler and more cost-effective.
For HVAC ductwork, putting the ducts in first sets you up for a cleaner finish, then you can add insulation afterward for maximum comfort and efficiency. For roof replacement, roofers rarely need to remove insulation because they typically work from the outside, so your attic setup can stay nicely intact.
For HVAC ductwork, putting the ducts in first sets you up for a cleaner finish, then you can add insulation afterward for maximum comfort and efficiency. For roof replacement, roofers rarely need to remove insulation because they typically work from the outside, so your attic setup can stay nicely intact.
Service Areas
Northwest Suburbs
North Shore
Learn More
